Vice President of Fashion Direction, Barbara Atkin, tells us what looks matter most for Fall 2008 and how to wear them with style

Who needs rules when contemporary fashion places value on quality, tailoring and smart design?

More to the point, the Fall/Winter 2008 collections as viewed through a '70s lens conjure up a welcome sense of free-spirited self-expression. Hippie vests and 'bowho' blouses are easy wardrobe updates that also feel familiar. Although these elements of style promise an easier approach to womenswear, they require an understanding of volume, juxtaposition and silhouette focus. Brushing up on colour theory can't hurt. Barbara offers her insight and gives context to the clothes so that they transcend the runway into everyday life.

Fabric
Since style is defined less and less by seasons, try pairing lighter-weight fabrics, such as chiffon, satin, silk, jersey and lace, with heavier wools, knits and leather. The lightweight, climate-neutral, transitional fabrics can be worn on their own or topped with heavier pieces once the weather cools.

Coats
The reefer coat need not be saved for winter or sporty occasions. As one of Fall's official must-haves, the reefer is lightweight enough to be worn immediately for both sporty and dressy occasions. Adding heavier sweaters or a jacket underneath will ensure that it gets put to use throughout the season.

Silhouette
Achieving the silhouette of the season starts with an emphasized shoulder, which should be accented, strict, sharp or rounded. This shape allows for a more attenuated look and is best worn with slim, clean pared-down garments. Play with proportion by layering longer sweater coats and cardigans with shorter dresses. Pair a suppressed-waist man blazer with a lean jodhpur for an equestrian chic casual look. Alternatively, team the same man-tailored jacket with a fuller pant and voila: the power suit for Fall 2008.

Masculine/Feminine
To make the most out of the oppositional masculine and feminine must-haves, wear them together! Bow blouses with tailored pants or blazers over skirts and dresses become an exercise in polished playfulness.

Trousers
A leggy look is easy to achieve thanks to trousers that graze the floor. A full, flared hemline is a throwback to the '70s and all but covers the shoe. Slim through the thigh, these pants allow for a variety of top options. A broad-shouldered man blazer teamed with a slim-fitting shirt, revealing a bold statement belt, feels both masculine and feminine. Alternatively, embrace your inner bohemian with a soft bowho blouse worn tunic-style, layered with multiple belts.

Lace
Don't dismiss lace as a material relegated to lingerie. In black, it assumes a couture personality that's elegant and enigmatic. A bold-hued slip will make lace more wearable while adding dimension. Opaque tights are another option although "day sheers" in black, navy or grey veil the leg and feel especially au courant.

Prints
Since Kaleidoscope is a theme this Fall, consider combining folkloric and Pop Art-inspired prints. To avoid dizziness, keep the silhouette classic and incorporate some solid colours, be it an opaque tight, a solid coloured jacket or a long and lean sweater.

Colour
As the summer of love shifts into winter gear, keep an eye out for crimsons, deep purples and any hue that suggests vamp. Contrast these against exotic spiced brights of magenta, saffron, orange and teal. As opposed to the bright metallics of last season, look for the luminescence of charred minerals to add a new dimension to a dark palette.

Details
Surface details such as overlays, textural treatments, embroidery and beading give simple garments a new sensibility. Wear these embellished pieces not just as formalwear, but also to give "separates dressing" a more luxurious appeal.

Handbags
Gone are the days when a purse had to match a pair of shoes. When searching for one that meets fashion and function needs, think about it in terms of an objet d'art that can be worn with both masculine and feminine-inspired looks. A chain-link bag, for example, is practically iconic and can double as an evening bag when the strap is tucked inside. Alternatively, a bucket bag boasting bold patchwork or printed surfaces is visually dynamic and in line with the season's bohemian vibe.

Belts
The new way to wear a belt is to wear multiples, whether overtop a tunic or to accent the waist of a skirt, pant and dress. Layer belts as if they are necklaces. Contrasting chain-links or varied widths will make the most impact.

Boots
The return of the knee boot directs focus to the upper leg. A minidress with contrasting hosiery (try gold with violet or fuchsia with teal) does wonders for that hint of exposed thigh, while a tucked-in jodhpur gives equestrian dressing a sexy, modern edge.

By Amy Verner