Individuals often have a particular affiliation with a specific era. It may be the romance of fin-de-siècle Europe, the iconoclasm of the Jazz Age or the wartime drama of the 1940s. For designer Tory Burch, it is the cool sophistication of the 1960s and '70s that holds sway.
From influences as diverse as her parents' vintage wardrobes, the work of interior designer David Hicks and American style icons Slim Keith, Talitha Getty and Babe Paley, since 2004 Burch has fashioned a sophisticated line of women's sportswear and accessories reminiscent of the era she loves. Her Spring '08 collection is no exception. Focusing on three themes – a classic 1967 Audrey Hepburn/Albert Finney film, St-Tropez in 1965 and Palm Springs circa the late '60s - Burch has captured the boyish elegance of that time period. And, as always, her shoes and accessories are just as vital in evoking the themes of the season. This spring, her resin clutch, nylon and faux-croc satchel, gladiator sandals in gold metallic leather and sneaker/ballet flats conjure up the essence of Hepburn cutting a stylish swath along the Côte d'Azur, or perhaps some poolside flirting with Frank Sinatra.
We wanted to get an idea of what a typical day looked like for this busy fashion whirlwind, so we caught up with her last fall as she told us about the finishing touches on her Spring '08 line, planning for her February move to her new corporate offices and, most important, spending time with her three young sons.
6 a.m.: I get up and work out before my three boys wake up. I love to run on the treadmill and listen to my iPod. I listen to everything from Van Morrison and Neil Young to Kanye West. If I can, I take a walk in Central Park either by myself or with a friend.
7:30 a.m.: My boys and I have breakfast, then I take them to school on my way to the office. This is the best time to hear about what they have going on that day and what is going on with them at school.
9 a.m.: I get to the office around 9 and check my e-mails. I try to read all the papers, as well, each morning. WWD is the best source for news on the fashion industry. I also read The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times and the New York Post. At this point, I sit down with my assistant and review meetings for the day, e-mails that need to be answered and calls that need to be made. I make it a rule to always get back to everyone who calls my office. When we started this company, the advice of people in the industry was critical to our success. I will never forget that, and I always try to make time to help others who are starting out.
9:30 a.m.: I meet with my design team to review inspiration boards for the upcoming collection. We begin the design process for each season by defining the key silhouettes and also by defining the mood of the collection. We try to make sure that each collection is true to who we are – classic with a bohemian sensibility – but, with each season, this mood is infused with all sorts of different influences, from a vacation in Turkey to an old movie I have just watched with my design team. For Spring '08, we were inspired by the movie Two for the Road and also by the style of the French Riviera in the '60s.
10:30 a.m.: I meet with the retail team and our architects to discuss plans for our new corporate offices. In February, we are moving to a new space at 19th and Fifth, and everyone is very excited.
Noon: I review the Spring '08 buy for our retail stores. As we open stores all across the country, we are very careful to tailor the buy to each location. For example, we are opening two stores in Vegas this winter, and we need to make sure that we have the right amount of evening clothes for that store.
1 p.m.: When I have time to get out of the office, I like to go to Café Habana on Elizabeth Street, near our store in NoLIta for lunch. It gives me a chance to go into the store and see how everything looks on the floor. I love talking to our store managers about how our customers are responding to the line, how things are fitting and what pieces are selling.
2:30 p.m.: I meet with the sales team to review how the season's selling. It is very interesting for me and the design team to hear what the bestsellers and worst sellers of the season are, because this helps us plan, merchandise and design the line. With each season, we learn more about our customer and what she responds to. This is something we always take into account as we plan each collection. In these meetings, we are also briefed on fit issues that may have affected sales, and we always try to take these into account for the next season.
4:30 p.m.: I review the spring look-book plan with our marketing team. We discuss the new layout we will be introducing this season and choose the looks and accessories that will be featured. We decide to do different groupings within the spring colour themes and pick out the shoes and bags that will be shot together for the accessories section.
5:30 p.m.: I leave work to go home. I am always home by 6, so I can do homework with my boys and eat an early dinner with them. There are always events and parties going on, but with three little boys, I choose which ones I attend carefully. When I do attend events in the evening, they are usually for work or a charity event for Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, which is a charity that is very close to my heart. I try to go out after they are in bed whenever possible and reserve the weekends to spend time with my family. If I take the boys out for dinner, I like to go to Serafina or Kelly & Ping.
8–11 p.m.: I read to the boys before they go to bed. Sometimes after they are in bed, I will meet a friend for a late dinner. Sushi at Nobu on 57th is my favourite and it's nearby. If I stay at home, I prefer reading to watching television - usually I read a book a week. But I often work after my boys have gone to bed because our Hong Kong office is 16 hours ahead. Late at night is the best time for me to touch base with everyone there, so it works out well. Luckily, I don't need much sleep! And yet, even the most energetic among us (and Burch certainly qualifies as that) require some shut-eye. Most nights, she wraps up her abundantly full days by 11. Like many women in 2008, she finds a way to successfully balance family and work while carving her own path. It may, indeed, be the '60s and '70s that capture her imagination but, every day, Tory Burch proves she truly is a woman of her times.
By Robin Payne
