HOW TO SUCCEED IN BUSINESS WITHOUT REALLY TRYING
Everywhere you look these days, popular culture is office-obsessed. Maybe because we're spending more time there than ever before: 8.9 hours a day in 2005, up from 8.4 in 1986. Not surprisingly, the zeitgeist has been captured in a slew of recent books and television programs, novels such as Josh Harris's Then We Came to the End and sitcoms such as The Office and Billable Hours.
Then there's Mad Men, the critically acclaimed series set in a Madison Avenue ad agency in 1960. Like the iconic film The Apartment, Mad Men exposes the sharp edge of '60s office life, pitting hungry young execs against the alpha male with the big desk.
Mad Men's depiction of extreme work culture is not the only point of identification for today's viewer, however; it's had almost as much buzz about the fashion as about the social commentary. And it's not just that the slim suits and narrow ties look remarkably contemporary: they mirror a new sophistication in today's business world that some see as long overdue - a return to elegance after years of casual Fridays.
One look at this season's shirts, ties and accessories proves that elegance is all in the details. But while the early '60s were all about the guy in the grey flannel suit, today's snappy dresser has a much more colourful palette at his disposal. The alternative to the classic white shirt, for example, might be a Paul Smith gingham style in pink, navy or red. Etro has cleverly updated the classic contrast-collar shirt that was big in the '80s, offering a checked collar on a striped shirt, a striped collar on a checked shirt - or even a striped collar and cuffs on a coloured background with a white-background striped shirt.
Ties are slimming down, too. Paul Smith is doing lots of six-centimetre versions (the regular width is eight and a half or nine) with diagonal stripes or geometric prints in colours such as lilac and pink, as well as black and navy. And, of course, narrower ties are suitable for embellishment, such as with Burberry's classic tie bars in the iconic nova-check pattern or studded solids. There is also the option of flashier versions from Duchamp, adorned with jewel-toned and acid-bright crystals.
But the true office dandy will be happy to know that bowties are also making a comeback, with Etro and Holt Renfrew doing versions this season in striped or medallion patterns. They showcase such rich hues as purple and teal, along with muted acid tones, preppy brights and nautical colours on neutral backgrounds. The bowtie purist, however, will always gravitate toward the classic from the French company Charvet.
Add to that natty "cuff wear" - that's cufflinks - from David Yurman or John Hardy in, say, handcrafted sterling silver or pavé diamonds, and there are sure to be extra marks for style on the next performance review.
SNEAKERS' CORNER
From Robson Street boîtes to Queen West restos, guys have lately found a new preoccupation: checking out each other's limited-edition sneakers. The semiotics of footwear is a venerable club sport but, in the past, guys never really got to play. Now all that's changed: enter the trophy sneaker.
With such fierce interest, it was inevitable that the niche sneaker would slope its way off hipster street and into the luxury market. This season has a crowded playing field, indeed: from Dolce & Gabbana's metallic logo-stamped kicks to U.S. label Creative Recreation's silver-and-black high-tops, it's statement dressing with a decided edge. Enough so that some of these styles are sure to be making tracks in the office.
Sneakers in the office? It depends, of course, on the particular corporate culture, but there are definite fashion points to be scored by pairing, say, some Paul Smith black leather "brogue-style" kicks with a slim John Varvatos suit.
The key to the sneaker's ability to travel is the new pared-down silhouette, which is much closer to a European cycling shoe than a puffy basketball look. "The way they are tailored to your foot, they actually have the same effect as a dress shoe," says Alon Freeman, Market Editor Menswear at Holt Renfrew.
There's considerably more freedom when you're off the clock. The more austere offerings include John Varvatos's military-inspired Chuck Taylor canvas numbers and Swedish niche label Acne's ankle-high bootie, which looks like an old-school boxing shoe. Creative Recreation rocks the disco look with sparkly green and red metallic faux snakeskin. Meanwhile, Paul Smith brings us his trademark whimsy in eye-popping hot pink and lime green canvas.
Haute labels also get into the game, with Gucci's silver high-tops and white leather logoed sneakers that boast a Japanese rockabilly vibe. For the fashionably flamboyant, Lanvin's sneaker in silver nylon mesh and grey nylon with a copper metallic cap toe are sure to channel your inner gladiator.
HAVE BAG WILL TRAVEL
Travelling in style may have taken a hit lately. For awhile, it seemed as if the only images we could conjure up of elegant travel were relegated to references to the Orient Express or memories of 1960s jet-set society. Not anymore. Luggage makers across the spectrum, from luxury brands to old-school standbys, are bringing romance back into travel with their sleek designs for spring.
As in men's fashion, technology was a major influence on the latest collections, with superlight, super-tough fabrications meant to withstand the depredations of remote destinations. Even sensible Samsonite - which, like Louis Vuitton, began as a trunk maker - goes very Battlestar Galactica with its aerodynamic X'Lite line. Featuring innovative materials, chrome-plated hardware and security features such as a special locking system and unique serial IDs, it is both rugged and fashion forward.
Venerable U.S. brand Tumi is also adding luxury details, combining hand-tooled Italian leather with its trademark ballistic nylon in the Townhouse collection by designer David Chu. The company offers subtle touches that murmur, rather than scream, luxury.
The Montreal-based company Want: Les Essentials de la Vie has made waves internationally with its line of Italian-leather weekend bags and laptop cases named after international airports. This year, the design team of twins Byron and Dexter Peart have upped the cool quotient with new versions in organic cotton and eco-friendly leather. So one can carry one's Trudeau computer bag not only with style but with a touch of high-altitude integrity, too.
By Sheree-Lee Olson
